Day 1 Amsterdam or how I stayed awake for along time

The Red eye is a flying requirement for us form Seattle and we were very impressed with the Delta service and the seats, even in economy seemed just a smidge more comfortable then when we flew the Virgin 787. We were on an AirBus A330, which can accomodate almost 300 passengers. We made great time with a tail wind so in ahead of schedule. Here we are onboard in Seattle. Me and Amy and Margeaux and Nick.

The transportation system is well developed so it was a breeze getting to our VRBO right on a canal very close to core activities. To go with the flow we did rent bikes to get around, as it is a very popular mode of transport here and this place is flat and under sea level. We did take a tour of the city via one of the many tour boats, which is a good way to get familar with how the canal really determine how the city was laid out. The structures go back to 1600’s and some have sunk and had to be reinforced with concrete pillars 30 meters into the ground. There are houses that lean against each other, kind of like drunks holding each other up.

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Our second full day was spent with a morning visit to the Van Gough Museum with his very prolific output over his lifetime. Some of my favorites here:

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More of day 2 on day 3 time for bed

Europe 2018

We embark on our second trip to Europe Amy and I and Nick and Margeaux. I will make periodic posts to the blog as we wend our way through Europe. Margaeux has developed the itinerary, which I have posted here. it will be a very aggressive pace through 5 different countries so we will be on the move, as they say. Stayed tuned for more!

Wed., July 25 through Sat., July 28 (Amsterdam) (2 nights)

  • Things of interest:
    • To see old windmill go to this brewery (Brouwerij ‘t IJ) (open from 2-8pm)
    • Beer tasting @ In de Wildeman
    • Brown Bar (popular with locals)
    • Museum Van Loon
    • Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder.  (restored three canal houses to their Golden Age furnishings and you can view one of the few remaining secret churches in Amsterdam)
  • Thursday, 7-26-18
    • 9:30 a.m. Van Gogh Museum (tickets for this entry time)
  • Friday, 7-27-18

 

Sat., July 28 through Mon., July 30 (Venice) (2 nights)

 

Mon., July 30 through Wed., Aug. 1 (Rome) (2 nights)

 

  • July 30, 2018

 

      • Arrive at AirBnB around 3pm
      • Do a Rome walk. See Spanish steps and Trevi Fountain.

 

  • July 31, 2018

 

 

Wed., Aug. 1 through Fri., Aug 3 (Florence) (2 nights)

  • AirBnB booked
  •  dinner)

 

Fri., Aug. 3 through Mon., Aug. 6 (Cinque Terre) (3 nights)

  • Airbnb Booked
  • (Take train from Florence through Pisa up to La Spezia and from La Spezia there is a 15 minute train to the village of Vernazza)
  • Things to note:
    • Must stamp train ticket at a green & white booth on the train platform before boarding or be fined 50 euros.
    • Train doors do not open automatically; must twist black handle.
    • Need a park pass for the hiking trails.
  • Five towns:
    • Monterosso (sandy beach)
      • Il Casello; Ristorante Belvedere; Ristorante Tortuga ; Miky
      • Take out: Pizzeria la Smorfia; il Forantoio; Pizzeria Focacceria da Emy
    • Manarola (vineyards)
    • Corniglia (La Posada Ristorante – overlooks the sea)
      • Good for lunch; open 12-10pm.
    • Vernazza
      • Restaurants with views: Gambero Rosso; Ristorante Belforete – call and reserve the terrazza con vista
      • Restaurants inland: Trattoria da Sandro;Ristorante Incadase da Piva
      • Vernazza Wine Experience (fun place to taste wine and eat)
      • Gambero Rosso (try the creamy pesto)

 

Mon., Aug. 6 through Tues. Aug. 7 (Lake Como- Varenna) (1 night)

Train from La Spezia to Milan around 10am and then we head to Varenna from Milan. I think about 3 hours of train travel total. Doesn’t sound like there is a whole lot to do in Varenna, so I think if we got there Monday afternoon (hopefully around 1pm) we would be ready to leave by late morning the next day (see below)

  • Hotel du Lac 

 

Tues. Aug. 7 through Wed., Aug. 8 (Zurich) (1 night)

  • Stay in Zurich for the night (Hotel Alexander); Confirmed; Card Charged upon arrival; 24 cancellation.
  • Restaurants:
    • Restaurant Swiss Chuchi
    • Wirtschaft Neumarkt (organic place)
    • Cafe Zahrginer (famously good coffee per RS)

 

Wed. Aug. 8 through Sat., Aug. 11 (Munich) (3 nights)

  • Staying at Eden Hotel Wolf
  • Hofbraehaus: Famous/touristy beer hall
  • Restaurant ideas:
  • Walking tours: Radius Tours
    • Also Bike Tours (bike through English Gardens)
  • Royal Palaces:
    • Residenz
    • Nymphenburg
  • Museums
    • Alte Pinakothek (art gallery)
  • Other sites:
    • Dachau Concentration Camp
    • Asam Church
    • St. Peter’s Church
    • St. Michael’s Church
    • Frauenkirche
    • Viktualienmarkt (outdoor market)

 

Sat., Aug. 11 through Sun, Aug. 12 (Oberammergau) (1 night)

(rent car in Munich and drive to Oberammergua – stay one night. Return car to Munich Sunday and head to Rhine valley)

 

Sun., Aug. 12 through Tues., Aug. 14 (Rhine Valley) – Stay in Bacharach (2 nights)

  • Stay at  Rhein Hotel
    • Free bikes, free breakfast, provides hiking trail maps (hike to Heinrich Heine Viewpoint)
    • Can order a picnic basket
    • Best high-end restaurant in town is at the Rhein Hotel
  • Altes Haus is another good restaurant; Kleines Brauhaus Rheinterrasse is also good and more casual (closed Mondays)
  • On Monday, Aug. 13, do a boat cruise to St. Goar
    • St. Goar:
      • Rheinfels Castle
  • Explore Castles and wineries

 

Tues., Aug. 14 through Wed., Aug. 15 (Amsterdam) (1 night)

  • Train from Bacharach to Amsterdam is about 5 hours: Book tickets at DB Bahn
  • Dinner at Cafe De Klepel
  • Flight out at 10:10 a.m. on Wednesday morning

Catching up on Charleston and Richmond Visits

Classic Fire Station near our rental.

Precious elixir George T Stagg, very rare limited release Bourbon being rationed out by Nick in Richmond.

The Terracotta Army entombed with China’s first emperor Qin Shihuang at the Virginia Fine Arts Museum. Side note not only were the Terracotta Warriors guarding the emperor but many peasants also tossed in for good measure, never good being on the receiving end of such beneficence from royalty. VMFA is a world class museum in Richmond, with a very diverse impressive collection.

 

High Tea at the Jefferson Hotel, hint you won’t get over-filled. Named after Thomas Jefferson, with some very nice portraits of him and other notables of our country’s founders, this classic hotel takes you back to an era, where sweatpants and backwards riding hats would not be a visual distraction but in my audit of the patrons, of today, such casual attire, was all too apparent but we dressed up for the occasion.

Isley Brewery in Richmond Team Virgin Sturgeon takes second place in trivia contest! Geoff assessing our team score and what points to venture on the next round.

Random shots around Charleston. There are two styles of  architecture, in Charleston the federal style prevails with the high columns, in Richmond the colonial style with more of an emphasis on balconies. Charleston also had some cool art deco theaters one re-purposed as an Urban Outfitter. The pictures looking our on the bay show in the distance, Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the civil war took place, as South Carolina was where the secession began. The interior shots are of the Russell house, where we took a guided tour of this rich merchant’s elegant home. The spiral staircase a splendid example of fine woodworking and craftsmanship.

 

Our last day in Paris

Catchy title but accurate. We wrapped up our trip yesterday with a tour of the Opera House, and a night tour of the Parisian landmarks in this quite aptly named City of Lights. Of course the highlight for the night was the Eiffel  Tower. The Opera House reflects the opulence and focus on social status that demonstrated the prowess of the French colonizing ambitions, and accomplishments of the Napoleonic conquests of that time. France has alternated from monarchy and popular, some may say mob rule, from the 18th century on and it’s architecture was borne through these turbulent epochs, with some magnificent buildings and their purposes modified, based on who ruled, thus a royally inspired vision may of ultimately have been deconstructed for a more utilitarian structure. In any case, this great city is indeed a singular example of the heights of western culture. Back to Seattle today leave at 1:20 PM get home at 3:00 PM so and hour 40 minutes piece of cake, or an eclair yum. Lots of pics inside the opulent Opera House. Picture of the door where the Phantom had his box to be close to his lover, a singer in the Opera. Pictures of the Seine, and Amy at Margeaux’s favorite French Restaurant, Chez Janou.

Peripatetic Paris

I’ve been trying to figure out how to describe our Paris experience so far because its beauty is undeniable and the people sort of reflect a certain, to use the French term,   savoir faire. Fuse that with a sort of brusque sense of purpose and long suffering to host the multitude of eager visitors to take in this one of a kind City of Lights and you can easily get swept up in these swift currents but no telling where you will end up. Being we  have a short stay here we opted for a guided tour, très cher, mon dieu! Our guide a frenetic French Mary Poppins drove us like cattle through the Louve, The Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame, with our signpost her up turned umbrella. We were wired for sound with little receivers, while she provided nebulous narration of a few select pieces of art, the heavies Mon Lisa, Venus De Milo and a few large canvases of the very expanded ego of Emperor Napoleon. This was not a contemplative visit to a museum, but a forced march through the hoards, if the Seahawks need some effective blocking techniques, we may be of assistance. That is one of the facts of Paris it is extremely crowded with visitors and citizens alike all trying to get through the same activities. Compared to London, and we toured there on a weekend and this  Paris on a Monday, wow I’ll take London! Beautiful City for sure but you need more time to pace its splendors and the other lesson learned ,acquire some language skills, it will enhanced your enjoyment, most particularly navigation! We did a fair bit of somewhat aimless walking trying to find our destination; I do not like being lost! A few additional comments on the pictures below, even the subways transcend a utilitarian appearance, note the lights. Paris has a very well established transportation system, which we used. Pho always a hit with the budget traveler:)

In the City of Lights but first final update From London

Well we are now in Paris after a nice half day in London, where we visited the Tate Modern Museum for a quick tour through the permanent collection. There are some interesting noteworthy pieces from the great moderns but also contemporary artists as well, especially in multiple mediums. The Tower of Babel, see if you can pick out that picture! The man in the picture Beuys, was a German advocate of a radical way to educate and certify students in with an emphasis on a non-formulaic manner of curating their learning, harnessing the individual’s innate talents. Probably would not pass muster amongst most educators but he was a passionate advocate of alternatives to traditional learning. The picture of the blue dots is actually radioactive nuclear waste capsules at Hanford storage site, considered to be the most toxic nuclear site in the US and its in our backyard. Amy said that’s why the Walla Walla Onions are so big!

The pictures below are from the observation floor of the Tate. Can you guess which building we nicknamed the Butler. The other two buildings are the cheese grater and the shard, which is which?

 

We took the EuroStar train under the English Channel and on into Paris. We walked along the Seine for an evening stroll and dinner. Tomorrow we do an all day guided tour, since we have a short stay here, it seemed prudent to get a good survey.

A foot in London

Yesterday we did London on foot, over 10 miles, wandering between St. Pauls, The Tower of London, and over to an evening play on the Strand. The Tower of London is a combination of vast historical significance, and modern Disney inspired tourism. Obviously a well attended destination so crowds somewhat boorish and overwhelming, especially seeing the Crown Jewels but we were part of it so no complaining here:) I think the highlight for me was the guided tour hosted by the Tower Guards, or Yoeman, who have been the Queen or Kings guards since 1485. They are active military and quite a select few and if you check out the weaponry they carry, while on duty, its not a toy but modern assault rifle. We were able to go into the chapel, at the end of our tour and the tales those floors could tell. The three Queens of Henry the 8th, who displeased his royal expectations are buried, headless under the alter. In fact a number of poor souls who were executed were found under the floor during a renovation, as they unceremoniously tossed them under the floor and placed their heads on London Bridge, as a example. Such public spectacles led to good behavior by the majority of the citizens. We were able to take in the Even Song at St. Pauls, a 5 PM service open to the public and near to my Scottish heart, as it is free versus paying the usual admission fee. All is not dollars and cents however the service was quite impressive with the organ and choir filling this great cathedral with spiritual harmony for all in attendance. Due to the heightened terror alert, there was to be an enhanced presence of military and police but it was very discreet and I believe many were in civilian clothing so as to be better positioned to seek out any troublesome characters, without being identified as authorities. I did see one soldier outside the Tower Of London. Decent weather yesterday so got some good pictures below.  Today its a quick visit of the Tate Modern Museum and then on to the EuroStar train to Paris. A couple of mentions for the pictures, we came upon Candy Heaven near the theatre where we saw the Play about Queen Ann and her livelong tension with the Duchess of Marborough, a good historical and entertaining, well acted play. The English love there sweets and so does Amy! The statues of what looks like soldiers is actually a memorial for all the firefighters who sacrificed their lives fighting the fires brought on by the Nazi Blitz of England. Interesting fact about the blitz the Germans agreed not to bomb Oxford and the English also agreed not to bomb Heidelberg, due to intellectual and artistic heritage of course Hitlers deluded vision saw Oxford as where the Nazi’s would set up a administrative headquarters once they had won. Also below, one of the gruesome exhibits of  medieval enhanced interviewing techniques in the Tower, the rack and the crusher. Also pictures of the Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Square, St Paul and London Bridge. I tried to catch combination shots of old and new architecture, see if you can guess which building is nick named the Walkie Talkie. Oh one additional observation on the pictures. The gate on the Thames is how prisoners were rowed from their trial at Parliament to the Tower. It’s referred to as Watergate, a name that our guide thought quite humorous based on our own political scandal.

London Calling

wp-image--17916729We are back in London now dropped off the car, surviving a hectic week of driving country lanes where the locals drive like they are on a 4 lane freeway, and you just hold your breath and hope you don’t careen into the ditch, mirrors barely clearing as they pass. The drive through the countryside is amazing however, the Cotswolds are a pastoral scene that has not changed in generations. Every little village you pass beckons with cozy pubs and Inns.  Maybe a pint or two would of allayed my driving paranoia but maybe not such a good idea. So back in London, staying at a hipster hotel Citizen M on the South bankside by the Thames. I thought it would up my hipster cred but sadly I feel my age, as the room is more like a luxury accommodation that is if you were fly in a private cabin an Air Emirates AirBus A380! I have to crawl over Amy to get into bed, the shower/toilet is very much like an airplane enclosure out in the room and our luggage looks out of scale like we woke up in Gullivers travels. So that and the fact that I cannot grow a pony tail adds up to my oldster cred. Yesterday afternoon we went to the reconstructed Globe theatre to see King Lear and the performance did not disappoint. The King himself played with such animation that the audience was sniffling at times, me too. This great tragedy of Shakespeare, one of his best, really delves into fundamental human virtues and vices. Hint the vices do not prevail unlike many modern stories. Amy, pictured below got a great bowl of her very favorite squash soup. Pictures are of the Globe Theatre, an A380 passing over it, and the Thames with St Paul in the background. Today we go the St. Paul, The Tate Modern, also in a picture below, and the Tower of London, if we can fit it all in. Unfortunately there has been another terrorism incident by these venal cowards, so the terror alert has gone from severe to critical, so there will be an enhanced military and police presence today. Londoners carry on, as any great city like this would, but you cannot ignore the sense of vulnerability these assholes create.